Being on many nature-lovers' and hikers' bucket lists, it's no surprise that Glacier National Park is in the top 15 most-visited national parks in the U.S. This expansive place covers over a 1 million acre area in northwest Montana. Obviously, it's most well-known for its glaciers. There are currently 25 active ones in the park. Besides being stunning natural features in and of themselves, they also create the beautiful crystal clear and blue-green lakes. These are especially amazing with the reflection of the rocky, jagged peaks.
You may have heard that the glaciers there are shrinking. While they have been retreating since the mid-1800s after the height of the Little Ice Age, there has been a significant increase in their shrinking over the past half-century or so. That said, the sooner you can plan a trip to this unique park, the better! If you'd like to see it in all of its natural glory, check out some of its most well-loved backpacking routes below!
Featured Photo: Granite Park Chalet (photo by Troy Smith)
North Circle
If you want to spend the better part of a week exploring the beauty Glacier has to offer, you can't beat the North Circle loop. Over 52 miles, you'll get amazing views atop the Continental Divide, see several waterfalls, clear alpine lakes, and glaciers galore. The wildflowers are abundant in-season along with the opportunity to see wildlife. The Ptarmigan Tunnel is another highlight of this route. (Be sure to check whether it's open before heading out later in the season.)
If you plan on visiting during the peak season, make sure to get your permits asap. This is one of the most popular treks in the park. And, if you're feeling adventurous and don't mind some bushwhacking, take the short side trip to Mokawanis Lake and its waterfall.
For more info, check out our full write-up.
The Highline
If you're looking for something less time-consuming, look into The Highline trail. This 12-mile loop also gives you epic views along the Continental Divide. In fact, the whole trail is full of incredible, open views of the glaciers, mountain peaks, and valleys. It is also one of several trails that can take you to the Granite Park Chalet. (More on that below.)
This is another excellent trail for seeing wildlife, including bighorn sheep and mountain goats. And, if you like “side quests”, be sure to check out the Grinnell Glacier Overlook. Finally, if for some reason you don't want to do this as a loop, it can also be done as an out-and-back.
Boulder Pass
Like many other places in Glacier, Boulder Pass has several routes that will get you there. Most of them have similar mileage, being around 36 miles. This area is located in the North Fork region of the park. And, you'll eventually end up right on top of the well-known Hole in the Wall.
This trek is full of natural wonders, including large alpine lakes, glacial cirques, waterfalls of various sizes, and, of course, mountain passes. You'll start your journey along the shores of Kinta Lake and Upper Kinta Lake. Before long, some steep switchbacks take you up to the pass. Past the campground, you'll find the Boulder Pass Overlook. Be sure to have a camera with you!
Gunsight Pass
If you plan on making the climb to Gunsight Pass, you better be ready for LOTS of elevation gain! This 20-mile point-to-point takes you through a variety of terrain. You'll pass through wildflower-filled meadows, over rugged passes, and see plenty of glaciers, towering peaks, and lakes. Some specific highlights include Gunsight Lake and Pass, Lincoln Pass, Jackson Glacier Overlook, and Lake Ellen Wilson. You have several camping options, including the Sperry Chalet and campsites at Gunsight and Ellen Wilson Lake.
While this trail is another popular one amongst hikers, it's worth noting some safety concerns. Some areas of the trail get quite bushy. Make sure you make noise in these areas so you don't accidentally sneak up on a bear! Snow likes to linger around the trail's namesake. It's a good idea to ask about conditions at the visitor center before heading up.
Cracker Lake
The 13 miles to and from Cracker Lake will take you in and out of the forest and up ridges. The first several miles are mostly in the dense forest. There are some breaks, though, where you can see Cracker Flats, Lake Sherburne, and the mountains beyond. After crossing Allen Creek and getting off of the horse trail, you'll tackle some switchbacks. At the top of the ridge, you'll find the amazing sight of two valleys on either side, both with creeks flowing down! You might catch a peek at a waterfall as well.
After Canyon Creek and another stint in the forest, you'll finally be in the open again. Excellent views await with the overlook of Cracker Lake being the best for last. Its glacial blue waters make it one of the more well-known lakes in the park. While you're in the area, you might want to check out the Cracker Lake Mine site too.
Keep in mind this trail is shared with horseback riders. That said, it can become extra muddy and rutted. This trail is also notorious for bear sightings, so be prepared!
Sperry Chalet
For another shorter trip, you won't be disappointed by the route to Sperry Chalet! This 12.5-mile out-and-back takes you through the Glacier Basin area. The verdant meadows here are surrounded by a glacial cirque, which includes Edwards Mountain and Lincoln Peak. If that doesn't sound stunning enough, add in the abundant waterfalls spilling down the rocky slopes and Akaiyan Lake and Feather Woman Lake along the way. Then, you'll head over Comeau Pass and make your way to Sperry Glacier.
Reservations can be made for Sperry Chalet. If you'd rather “rough it”, there is a campground nearby too. If you want to extend your trip, you can hit up Gunsight Pass and Lincoln Pass beyond the chalet grounds.
Pitamakan Pass/ Dawson Loop
Mileage amounts vary online, but plan on at least 15 miles for this loop through one of the more remote areas of the park. It's a great option if you still want great scenery, but fewer crowds. It's also very challenging.
You can't really go wrong with any area of the park, but this route takes you through arguably some of the best terrain in the southern part of Glacier. You'll start along the stunning, evergreen-lined Two Medicine Lake. From there, you'll head up to Bighorn Basin and then Dawson Pass. This is just the beginning of the great views as you hike along the Continental Divide to Pitamakan Overlook. Farther on at Pitamakan Pass, enjoy the view of Old Man Lake and the Cut Bank Valley. As you near the end, you'll pass through another valley and wind around Rising Wolf Mountain. Keep an eye out for those mountain goats and bighorn sheep!
Granite Park Chalet
Granite Park Chalet is known as the more "backcountry" of the chalets. There are several different ways to get there, including the popular Highline trail we covered above. For a shorter route, take the 8-mile out-and-back via the Granite Park Trail. The longer option is the 11.5-mile point-to-point via the Highline Trail.
The trip to the chalet and the area itself provides lots of neat opportunities. You can't pass up a stop at the Swiftcurrent Lookout, which is the highest in the park and offers 360° views. There is the Grinnell Glacier Overlook as well. If you want to tack on some miles, you can make a trip to Ahern Pass. Or, simply enjoy the views of Bear Valley and Heaven's Peak from the chalet itself!
Although it's in the backcountry, you'll still need to secure reservations for your stay at the chalet. There is also no water source there, so carry extra and pack accordingly!
Conclusion
Have you ever visited Glacier National Park? What were some of your favorite sights or trails? We'd love to hear about your experience in the comments section below!
Read Next
If you're looking for more hike ideas, read our “Top 8 Backpacking Trails in Montana” round-up post. Also, the following Hike of the Week articles cover other great trails in the region.
Hike of the Week: The Beaten Path
Hike of the Week: Skyrim Loop
Hike of the Week: Sunshine Village to Mount Assiniboine
For even more amazing backpacking trips, visit The Trailhead, our interactive hike map. It contains a curated list of dozens of hikes, each with a detailed write-up like this one.
Finally, check out our comprehensive list of backpacking articles that cover just about everything there is to know about backpacking. If you're just starting out, our Backpacking 101 section covers all the basics. If you already have a few trips under your belt, you can find more advanced topics covered in our Expert Articles.
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